Where to Watch Game in the Kruger National Park

The following is an excerpt from Nigel Dennis's book Getaway Guide to Where to Watch Game in the Kruger National Park, published in paperback by Sunbird Publishing, Cape Town. Nigel Dennis has spent over 800 days in the Kruger Park over the past 14 years, and has travelled each and every road in the Park at least once, many 100 times and more. “Where to Watch Game in the Kruger National Park” provides a wealth of information on the best routes and waterholes throughout the Park, plus useful general hints and tips on game viewing and photography. Undoubtedly the most comprehensively researched Kruger guide available - don't visit Kruger without a copy! Price R69.95 (approx US$10 or GB Pounds 6.40).

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Shingwedzi
Shingwedzi undoubtedly offers the most productive game viewing in the north. In fact when conditions are right at the end of the dry season and Kanniedood Dam and the rivers in the region are still holding some water, sightings can be outstanding. I rate Shingwedzi, along with Satara, Lower Sabie, Crocodile Bridge and Skukuza as one of the prime game viewing camps of the Kruger Park. This medium sized camp is spacious so there is seldom a feeling of overcrowding. The gardens and rockeries have been planted with aloes and a profusion of impala lilies giving a splash of vibrant colour in the winter season. Photographers should watch out for the redheaded weavers that nest close by the restaurant and at several other spots in the camp. Game drives in the area include some wonderful river routes frequented by fine herds of elephant and buffalo. Lion are fairly plentiful in the region and Shingwedzi also offers a very good chance of leopard sightings.

By far the most popular route close to Shingwedzi is the excellent S50 that closely follows Kanniedood Dam and the Shingwedzi River. I believe this to be one of the very best drives in Kruger, both in terms of numbers of game as well as the marvellous scenic views of the river bordered by enormous sycamore figs. The best part of this route begins only a kilometre or so from camp. Numerous loop roads offer a variety of views of the dam which holds good numbers of hippo and many very large crocodile. This is also a great location to view waterbirds and is particularly favoured by the endangered saddlebilled stork. A viewing hide has been built on the dam but is rather poorly situated and offers little advantage for photographers, as generally the loop roads give closer views. Kanniedood Dam is regularly visited by big herds of buffalo and elephant and often these herds stay in the area for a while after drinking. Beyond the dam the S50 follows the river course for a considerable distance and continues to be very productive. The entire road is prime leopard country and often lion are present as well. The only drawback with this route is its great popularity so the road can become rather dusty during peak periods.

Another fine drive that sees less traffic is the S56 Mphongolo River Route. First travel north on the H1-7 main tarred road. Lamont waterhole is worth a look on the way through as occasionally fair numbers of game drink here. After about 5 kilometres you will reach the S56 turnoff. This is another splendid route with impressive old sycamore figs growing along the riverbank. Bird watching can be particularly rewarding and a marvellous variety of species will reveal themselves to the patient observer. Big game enthusiasts will not be disappointed either as this is prime country for lion and elephant. Approximately 16 kilometres into this route is a large river pool. This is an excellent place to photograph elephant drinking in good afternoon light. I like to take my time along this road and rarely reach Babalala picnic site, which marks the end of the S56, before late morning. Returning to camp on the H1-7 look out for herds of game drinking at Boyela and N'warithlangari waterholes. Close by Nkulumbe there is a promising short detour on the S53. Although I have yet to see much here other than giraffe it looks to be just the kind of place that could offer interesting sightings.

The S52 Redrocks route is situated to the west of Shingwedzi Camp and is a personal favourite. Game numbers are perhaps not as great as the Kanniedood Dam drive, but I find the area quite fascinating and must have driven this road at least fifty times over the years. Rather a long road, the S52 follows the northern bank of the Shingwedzi River and then loops back on itself along the southern bank. Both sections are good, but generally I have found the northern section slightly better, so I tend to drive this first. Leopard have been sighted here with remarkable regularity in recent years and I have seen some fine lion as well. The road is also notable as one of the most likely places in the Park to see the rare Sharp's grysbok. The hotspot for these shy antelope lies on the northern side of the loop just past the turnoff to the causeway river crossing. Elephant herds are sometimes present, but appear to live mostly in areas well away from the tourist routes as they are unused to vehicles. I have encountered skittish behaviour from elephants here and occasionally considerable aggression, so it is wise to drive slowly and carefully. The best viewpoint lies on a short loop on the southern side of the river overlooking Redrocks. With a little luck elephant may be seen drinking at the river pool here.



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Text and images © Nigel J Dennis